Coffeehouses

Ottoman Album Dublin Beatty T 439.9.jpeg

Coffee house scene (recto), folio from an Ottoman album, T 439.9, artist unknown, assembled in Istanbul, Turkey, c.1620. From the Turkish collection of Chester Beatty Library in Dublin, Ireland.

Coffeehouses as public spaces first emerged in the Islamic world, and became deeply embedded in the social life of Ottoman Istanbul in the 16th and 17th centuries: due to coffee’s energizing, highly addictive, but non-intoxicant effect (particularly important for Muslims, as Islamic law prohibited the drinking of wine), coffeehouses became extremely popular and convenient places in which men could gather to socialize, relax, network, and conduct business. Aside from the occasional female server or owner, coffeehouses became the preferred setting for male sociable drinking, which, before coffee, had relied upon the consumption of alcohol. As profitable businesses, spreading to every corner of the city, coffeehouses were patronized by Muslims and non-Muslims alike, and people spent so much of their time in them that the ulema reportedly became concerned about dropping rates of mosque attendance. Although attempts were made to ban coffee and coffeehouses, they were too popular and lucrative to eradicate. Owners hired beardless youths as servers to attract more customers, and filled their coffeehouses with entertainment and games to enjoy. As we can see in this miniature, customer activities ranged from conversing, playing boardgames such as backgammon, enjoying musical performances, reading, to even relishing the caress of a young server while sipping a cup of coffee, as in the case of a customer on the upper right side.

Photo source: Chester Beatty Library online archive, https://viewer.cbl.ie/viewer/object/T_439_9/1/LOG_0000/

Sources:

Eminegül Karababa and Güliz Ger, “Early Modern Ottoman Coffeehouse Culture and the Formation of the Consumer Subject,” Journal of Consumer Research, vol. 37, no. 5 (February 2011), p. 737-760. https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.1086/656422

Melvin Bragg, Judith Hawley, Markman Ellis, and Jonathan Morris, “Coffee,” In Our Time podcast, produced by BBC Radio 4, 55 mins (12 December 2019). https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m000c4x1

Ebru Boyar and Kate Fleet, “5. The consuming city,” A Social History of Ottoman Istanbul (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2010), p. 190-194.

The Street
Coffeehouses